Dodo sit, Kasviken

The perfect boulderproblem.

/DO

Dogma 7A

Victor Lindqvist working Dogma in Häller. Photo: Henrik Hult.

/DO

The 40th anniversary of the Swedish climbing association

I was very happy to get to be a part of the celebrations of the Swedish climbing association's fortieth anniversary. Me and Robert where stationed in Häller to serve as inspirers and beta-banks for thoose who had come to climb. However, since it was the probably warmest day of the year so far, no one but us where dumb enough to even try climbing at the sundrenched crag and we ended up having to throw our beta and inspiration back and forth between eachother.

Robban getting his crackclimbing-skills on, doing Z-sprickan.

Me trying to escape the heat on Cuerpo the hombre, which even though it doesn't see any sun all day, 
still was to greasy for me to repeat it. Photo: Jonas Paulsson.

/DO

Big Crotte, Bas Cuvier

  

I must say that I do not allways enjoy going to the slightly more tucked away problems of Bas Cuvier. 
This is due to what can be found on the ground beneath them. This pictures shows 

Henrik Sennelöv trying Big Grotte, one climb I would not ever try on a 

 late thursday night for example.

/DO

Moby dick 7B+/7C

Guillame reaching out from the starting holds of Moby dick in Cuvier est.

/DO

En världsomsegling under havet, Lyse Kyrka

Photo: Fredrik Jutfelt

The other day, I did what I believe is the second ascent of this stunning climb at Lyse Kyrka. It was first put up by Henrik Sennelöv in the autumn of 2007. I tried it a couple of years ago, without coming anywhere near close and ever since then, I haven't been back. Until this weekend that is, when my visiting friend Geir and I went and had a play on it. I think what kept me from doing it already then was the warm, sunny weather making the crux-crimp to greasy for me to hold when doing the dyno to the arete.

Screenshot from Tuesdays filming.

After getting back from work earlier than usual on Tuesday afternoon, me and Victor decided to go climbing and Victor convinced me to go back to Lyse. On our way out, we where met by a cold front of clouds and winds coming in from the nearby ocean. A sight that filled me with hope and optimism. At location, after a couple of goes with long rest in between them in order to keep the skin cold, I stuck the crux-move for the first time and topped out En världsomsegling under havet.

/DO

3-star highball

Anders Terlongo climbing a brilliant highball at Djupviksgrottorna. Can anyone fill me in with the name of the problem?

/DO

Steel pulse 7B, Åland

Erik sure didn't make the very physical gaston-move of Steel pulse, look anywhere near as hard as it 
really is when running laps up the brilliant Åland-boulderproblem.

/DO

Paskapäivä 8A, Geta

Fred working one of my dreamclimbs on Åland, Paskapäivä.

/DO

Hard work paying off

Erik struggling on the powerfull moves of Drakguld, only to come back and surpise himself when sending it on his next session a few weeks later.

/DO

Voodoo 7A, Åland

Anders Terlongo working Voodoo at Djupviksgrottorna, Geta.

/DO

Pop the glock 7B+, Kasviken

Stefan Wulf getting his stamina on, sending Pop the glock at Kasviken.

/DO