This weekend, for the second year, I
was invited to take photos at the annual La Sportiva Legends only
competition at Klättercentret here in Stockholm. It was great to see
for myself that, just as people has been telling me, this is an event
that gets better for each year, even though it's hard to anticipate.
This is a word that seems to have spread, as people were
travelling from all over Europe, to catch this years competition
live. Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Alexander Megos, Jan Hojer, Adam
Ondra and Jernej Kruder formed a line-up hard to beat and I guess no
one had to feel worried or ashamed about not making the podium.
The only person rivalling Adam in terms
of performance was David Höglund, a.k.a Daddy Legend, behind the DJ
booth. He really brought the atmosphere to another level with his
tunes. Those of you who were not there and did not catch the
competition over the livestream, can still watch it here, or check
out a shorter summary by Epic TV.
After the comp finished the
competitiors, audience and everyone involved in the event, went
across the street to Tell Us bar for the legendary afterparty. David
brought his discs and kept spinning them until early next morning.
Just as last year I ended up emptying my camera battery and filling
up my memory card. People has been asking me if I got any good shots.
My respons to them has been, that if not at least a couple of
pictures turnes out decent, I will sell my camera. I'm still not
sure, but for the moment I guess I can consider keeping it for at
least another year, in case I would happen to be invited for a third
Since the dawn of time, by which I mean
the last decade or so, the Stockholm climbing gyms have been in a
state of cold war. Maybe not very cold and not exactly a war either,
but still. There has been some kind of...rivalry I suppose.
anyway, the gyms want to prove that anyone who make the decision to
train at their particular gym end up better, stronger and generally
more attractive than those going to the other walls. Needless to
say, the other gyms don't necessarily agree. This year, to solve
the matter they came up with the idea for "Gymfejden" (in
English "The feud of the gyms"), a competition running for
six weeks, where the climbers were to venture in to enemy territory,
i.e different walls, which each hosted 20 competition problems.
Those brave enough were given a scorecard on which do
scribble down their daring deeds and when the dust had settled. only
six climbers from each gym remained for the final battle. This
event was held last Friday at Klättercentret Telefonplan a.k.a K2.
Each team had ten minutes to get as many team members, up as
many of the six final problems as possible. Team K2 used the
advantage of being at their home court and climbed their way to
victory. The remaining four gyms were all given 2nd spot, because as
we all know, it's all about winning anyway...
DO: Since I was not competing, I siezed the
opportunity to take some photos (more to come...).
During my time in Turkey I was fortunet to get to meet Duygu Yarsur. A person that not only is extremely friendly and fun to hang out with at the
crag, but also an incredibly talented climber (and a master at baking
cakes). She gave me more than one technique lesson for climbing on
limestone. The perhaps biggest epiphany was seeing her using kneebars.
The first route I climbed with beta from her was Turkish airlines in Citdibi. I think I used about half of the kneebars she recommended and still my knee's where blue the next day.