There are better days for climbing on slopy rails than the one Arvid Holmgren and James Thanawat chose to spend in Orminge a couple of weeks ago. In the photos they are struggling on Wong sai 7B+, which Arvid managed to repeat despite the 30 degrees in the shades.
I quite like editing, but not climbing or filming outdoors much in the last year, I have to dig deeper and deeper into my archives to find footage that I can play around with. In a dusty folder with stuff gathered during my trip to Fontainebleau in the spring of 2012, I found two problems filmed by Sandstones media which had not been used in any video. Not having much to do the other night, I put them together to make this short...
Rababoum 7A, Manoury
la Joker 7A, Bas Cuvier
Regardless of the fact that Sydde had
completely trashed himself working out the beta forThe art of war,
he could not stay away from giving the neighbooring-problem a shot before calling it a day. I
thought he would'nt be able to move, but to my big surprise he
managed to dig out just enough energy (or perhaps it should rather be
called will power) to climb trough the crux on the short 7C+. Unfortunetely, that was as
far as what ever it was moving him upwards, lasted. He fell of on the last move before the juggy toput.
Last Sunday, Fredrik Sydstrand phoned me up and asked if I was keen on going out. As I have been injured all winter and just started climbing again, I've been sticking to climbing indoors. I feel that the risk of tearing my finger is smaller on plastic than on rock. At first I explained this to "Sydde" and headed for the gym. But as I stepped trough the door at Klättercentret, from the bright beautiful day it was, I realized that I could not miss out on a day like that. I turned around before I even got past the reception and as I did, I phoned Fredrik up. An hour later we where heading north, to Oppala in the city of Gävle. One of countless areas in connection to Stocholm that I have not yet visited (although the two hour drive makes it a bit to far to call it a Stockholm crag).
I was a bit worried that I would regret my decision, but fortunetely things turned out the other way around. Climbing on excellent rock in perfect conditions made me even more keen on training then I was before. I was reminded of why I'm spending many hours ever week rehabilitating, climbing circuits, doing core exercises and stretching. Hopefully if I keep it up, I will heal my wounds and maybe get in decent shape in time for the autumn!
Working with routesetting I often find myself thinking back on outdoor
climbs I've been on with hopes of finding inspiration for what I'm about
to set. The other day I was using this "tool" perhaps a bit too much. I
started missing Font more than I've done in a long time. And as I think about this second home of mine pretty much every day, missing it more means missing it A LOT! When I got back home that night I
immediately went on my computer and started looking at Font videos.
After a while I ended up seeing some old clips of mine and then stumbled
over some footage that I had not used. Since I had nothing better to do I
put some of them together to make the short below.